Learn why Reuben's Brews' Three Ryes Men is so unique, from its caretaker, Thor Stoddard.

Beer. 

To most, the word sums up thoughts of activities, commercials, or the sound a can or bottle makes when the top of the tab opens the package. But about baking? At Reuben’s Brews, innovation brewer Thor Stoddard provides a unique approach to the brewery’s limited edition releases. But one of his favorites, a beer that he oversees its recreation, is Three Ryes Men. 

Conceived by Reuben’s Brews’ co-owner, Adam Robbings, in 2017, Three Ryes Men is another example of the brewery’s focus on the use of Rye as a key ingredient. Today, the beer remains a heavy favorite of brewery loyalists and lovers of high gravity, barrel-aged beers. 

To make Three Ryes Men, the process starts with including Rye malt, at around 48%. Typically, a Three Ryes Men brewing day is laborious, mostly after transferring the wort made from the inclusion of rye malt, to the next boil kettle for hop additions. Unbeknownst to many, rye malt is a grain that is nested in a husk. Which after being milled will separate from the husk. The result when water is added as part of the brewing process will cause these husks to attach to the interior of the tank, making cleaning difficult. 

After adding hop additions,they transfer the beer into barrels, which for several years were from bourbon distillers like Heaven Hills. But recently, Thor and the other brewers elected to age Three Ryes Men in Rye whiskey barrels. Aged between a year and 18 months, Three Ryes Men’s base characteristics, including not of chocolate and cinnamon, will start gaining the unique flavors and aroma found in these prior use barrels. 

From there, over time, Thor will start the inspection process by drilling an initial hole in the barrel, usually well below where the barrel hole or bung hole is, to allow some of the aged Three Ryes Men into a glass. With a specific nail in both diameter and material, Thor will replace the evacuated area of wood to stop the flow of beer. Months later, Thor will return to that barrel, and with a quick yank will remove the nail, filling a cup, and replace the nail in its temporary resting place. 

During this process of ‘checking barrels’, Thor and others will review the evolution of Three Ryes Men as it “marries”' with the characteristics in the barrels. Often this process looks for unique flavors, while also ensuring the fermentation process hasn’t borne any off-flavors like green apple. Once these barrels are deemed ready, the brewers will collaborate on a blend, using measured ratios to determine the best blend of both year-old and up to several years old barrels. After a ratio has been agreed upon, the barrels selected are married and deposited into a large fermenter for storage prior to bottling and kegging. 

On the day of bottling and kegging, the brewery takes on a unique aroma of bourbon (or rye whiskey) along with the familiar smell of barleywine, as they fill bottles on the line. From there, they are packaged up, prior to wax-dipping, which typically occurs days or weeks prior to the agreed release date. 

And while this process is not unique, the beer itself is one of the few barleywines, aged in bourbon and/or rye whiskey barrels. But like baking, it’s healthy to experiment with ingredients. Which is why Thor took the experimental step of aging their Three Ryes Men in apple brandy and cinnamon whiskey barrels. Mind you, this isn’t the first time the brewery has used apple brandy and cinnamon whiskey barrels. 

One only has to look back on their Bourbon Barrel Imperial Stout variants, one of which was aged in apple brandy or cinnamon whiskey barrels. In fact, it was during this moment when combined that Thor realized BBIS tasted like apple pie. So, he thought, why not make a Three Ryes Men that tasted like apple pie. Of course, having a culinary background probably helped with this inspiration.

So, with a focus on recreating that ‘apple pie’ inspiration, Thor elected to age some of the Three Ryes Men in both apple brandy and cinnamon whiskey.

When asked the obvious question, why he didn’t simply add cinnamon and apple extract, the only explanation he provides is this process is more pure. Not that prior releases, like their BBIS, which included maple syrup, are not pure. This process of using barrels to replicate a dessert makes use of Thor’s culinary background in a way, that adjuncts don’t. If anything this process of marrying cinnamon and apple brandy barrels is more challenging. One that’s he proud of.

As of this article, the brewery has confirmed they have their first edition of their apple pie variant of Three Ryes Men, is now available to the public. Besides apple pie, the brewery’s original Three Ryes Men will be on draft and bottled, in the taproom and at select locations abroad.

To those who might consider purchasing two bottles, one for consuming now and one for later, Thor has this advice if you insist on saving one for a rainy day.  

I always like to tell people, um, these bottles, um, open it anytime it snows in Seattle. And, um, if it doesn’t snow this year, then maybe the beer isn’t ready. If you're going to take the time to watch the snow fall, and drink this beer, I think it will be infinitely better off than if you had this on a Monday night making dinner.

A sort of preview of what’s in store for those who visit the brewery between now and until all the Three Ryes Men is gone, here are our thoughts after getting a preview of Three Ryes Men and the apple pie variant. 

Thoughts on Three Ryes Men 2022

Out of the bottle, Three Ryes Men produces an initially strong off-white, almost khaki-like head of foam, resting on a pool of nearly pitch black darkness. Receding, there remains a ridgeline of lacing throughout the interior of the glass, acting like a sort of perimeter. 

Swirling and sniffing, one recalls notes of alcohol-soaked cherries, vanilla, brown sugar, and some cacao chocolate. 

Sipping, there's an upfront hit of cinnamon, followed by dark chocolate, then some cinnamon, before vanilla and a bit of dark cherry come through. Overall, Three Ryes Men 2022, has a strong mouthfeel, a definite alcoholic warmth, and a lingering stickiness.

Thoughts on Three Ryes Men - Apple Pie.Pungent apple. Almost green apple candy, like a cow tales candy. 

Swirling and sniffing, there’s an aromatic presence of cinnamon, granny smith apples, baked pie crust, and brown sugar. 

Sipping, there’s an upfront hit of strong cinnamon character, followed by dark brown sugar, some apple, and finishing with sweet dark fruit and some cinnamon.

Overall, there is a strong mouthfeel, a definite alcoholic warmth, and a lingering stickiness.

As of today, you can try both on draft or in bottles at Reuben’s Brews Taproom, located at 5010 14th Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107. For more information visit Reuben’s Brews at https://reubensbrews.com.